Hey, Seattle (part II)

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Welcome to Part II of my little Seattle guide, with things to do and places to stay.  If you missed Part I you can read it here for all kinds of great places to eat!

Visit:

Pike Place Market

No visit to Seattle would be complete without a stroll through the public market.  Amazingly fresh seafood, bites of all kinds (see! told you more food!), beautiful flower stalls, and the original Starbucks location await you here.  Grab a salmon pâté piroshky from Piroshky Piroshky, walk down to pick up some smoked salmon from Pure Food Fish Market, and then wander as you munch.  You can duck upstairs to Storyville Coffee to escape the bustle for a few minutes if you like.  Oh, and I highly recommend a stop at Le Panier before you leave — this boulangerie and patisserie offers the best pain au chocolat I’ve had since Paris.

 

Seattle Art Museum

With an excellent permanent collection and innovative exhibitions, SAM is well worth a visit.  The museum “contains nearly 25,000 works of art from around the world. Dating from antiquity to the present, the permanent collection represents a wide range of global cultures and historical perspectives.”  The current temporary exhibit, Double Exposure, is worth a look even on its own; it is a satisfyingly nuanced look at portrayals of Pacific Northwest native peoples over the last 150 years.

 

The Elliott Bay Book Company

This bookstore in the Capital Hill neighborhood has been serving Seattle for over four decades, and is a delight in every way.  Highlighted local authors and subjects, quirky giftware for the bibliophile, and an on-site cafe make for a lovely afternoon.  Despite the likelihood of an overly-heavy suitcase, I had to bring three books home with me.

 

Melrose Market

Melrose Market is like the teeny tiny well-curated cousin of Pike Place.  Meats, liquor, shellfish, homewares — all can be found in this little urban refuge.  Sitka and Spruce is located here, as it the most excellent homeware store Butter Home.  I wanted one of everything!  Their art prints and jewelry in particular caught my eye, but their are tons of other fun things to be had in this lovely little shop.  Visit if you can, and then grab a cocktail at Still Liquor.

 

Segway Tours of Seattle

Perhaps a little cheesy and touristy, but so much fun!  We spent a morning touring the city center by Segway, and got to see so many great spots.  The Space Needle, Lake Union, the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation Discovery Center, and the Museum of Pop Culture were highlights, but the running commentary from our excellent guide was no less interesting.  We actually walked back to the Gates Foundation Discovery Center for a closer look later in the afternoon, which proved to be both fascinating and inspiring.

 

Seattle is the city where Nordstrom was founded, so you can visit their original store location for kicks (and excellent shopping).  And the Chihuly Garden and Glass is definitely on my list for next time.

 

Stay:

Seattle is full of both excellent hotels and great AirBnB choices.  This visit we stayed at the Ballard Jungalow and had a delightful stay.  The host is kind, and her home is just the kind of serene escape I was craving.

If I you prefer a hotel, I have heard nothing but good things about the ever-hip Ace Hotel Seattle.  Reasonable prices, great vibes, and a great central location make this one a great pick.

Thank you for such a lovely week, Seattle!  We had so much fun and can’t wait to return!

 

Hey, Seattle (part I)

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This summer we took a week off to unwind and escape the heat in Seattle, WA.  I had never been, but the laid-back vibe and sense of community had me at “hello.”  After 100+ degree temps in Southern California, high 70s in the Pacific Northwest was pure bliss.  Add amazing food and stellar coffee to the gorgeous waterfront views all over the city, and you have an idea of why I didn’t want to leave.  Since we visited so many lovely spots, I’ll be splitting my guide into two parts.  This one, Part I, will focus on food and drinks.  In Part II I will talk about sights, shops, and places to stay.

Eat:

The Walrus and the Carpenter

You will have the opportunity to eat fresh, delicious seafood everywhere you turn in Seattle, and this elegant spot was no exception.  I had some of my favorite oysters of this trip here, briny and fresh, and the Sea Wolf Bakery bread and butter was perfection.  Roasted medjool dates with vanilla oil and salt made for a decadent sensory experience to end the meal.  Open for dinner daily, and they offer an oyster happy hour M-Th 4-6pm.  Know that there is often quite a wait, but fear not!  Amazing cocktails reside next door at the Barnacle Bar.  Order a spritz with the Spanish sardines with salsa verde.  Trust.

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Sitka & Spruce

For my birthday we indulged in the tasting menu at this quaint eatery in Melrose Market, and it did not disappoint in any way.  Unable to choose between the wine and beer pairings, we got both and sipped among the table — great call, might I add.  Every dish was as beautiful as it was delicious, and the drink pairings were a delight.  Their menu changes daily depending on what is forage-able or in season, so you’ll always have something interesting to look forward to.

Shiro’s Sushi

Shiro’s made for a special meal, with their combination of local and Japanese fish offerings.  Our omakase meal was pitch-perfect, from the kampachi to the toro and everything in between (the local salmon was particularly nice).  And is there anything quite so refreshing and the freshest sushi and a cold Asahi?

Kamonegi

If you enjoy soba noodles, look no farther than Kamonegi.  This tiny noodle shop offers hot and cold handmade soba in a cozy, fresh space, along with playful and delicious appetizers like yakitori duck tsukune with soft egg and shishito peppers with a miso spicy cod roe aioli.  If you arrive early for your reservation like we did, hop next door to Midnight Cookie Co. for cookies and milk and a little Nintendo.

No Anchor

I was a bit dubious when we walked into the dim bar of No Anchor, but my doubts began to melt away with my first sip of ale.  By my first bite of shishito fritter, I was a fan.  No Anchor boasts an extremely well-curated beer selection, with drafts offered at 42 and 52 degrees F to showcase each beer in its best light.  They also offer a grid with each of their beers ranked by how approachable/esoteric and traditional/modern you can expect them to be.  Their food is also delicious (corned duck breast with strawberry curd and fennel, I’m looking at you).  Don’t skip dessert, either — between the vanilla semifreddo and the dark chocolate sorbet, I was a happy camper.

The Fat Hen

This adorable brunch spot in Ballard may have been my favorite meal of the trip.  A small slice of Europe plunked right down in Seattle!  Between the best crab Benedict I have ever had and the egg bake alla Boscaiola, I was in heaven — and a shandy that paired Austrian beer with a spot-on fresh lemonade put me right over the top.  Don’t miss their house-made ricotta, either.

Frankie & Jo’s

Just across the street from The Fat Hen is Frankie and Jo’s plant-based ice cream shop.  While a visit to Molly Moon’s homemade ice cream is a necessary Seattle stop, make time for Frankie and Jo’s as well, and you won’t be disappointed!  My scoop of chocolate mint brownie was out-of-this-world good.  Also, two words: moon goo.

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Coffee, coffee, coffee:

Regardless of where you fall on the coffee-lover spectrum, you likely equate coffee with Seattle.  Seattle was an epicenter for the second wave of coffee, is the birthplace of Starbucks, and is regarded as a world center for both roasting and supply chain management.  Let’s just say that tons of great coffee can be found here.

Starbucks Reserve

We skipped the line at the original Starbucks location in Pike Place Market in favor of visiting the Starbucks Reserve Roastery over in Capital Hill.  It is like Disneyland for coffee in every way: glossy, commercial, and undeniably delicious.  I highly recommend the experience bar downstairs, where you can order small-lot coffees from all over the world in espresso or siphon tasting flights (with optional chocolate truffle pairings!).  If sweet coffee drinks are more your style, order a Shakerato affogato and thank me later.

Espresso Vivace

For old-school espresso and an obligatory hat-tip to David Schomer, visit Espresso Vivace.  ‘Nuff said.  (My iced mocha was delicious.)

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Seattle Coffee Works

A homey spot just outside of Pike’s Place Market, Seattle Coffee Works’ flagship location offers an espresso counter and a slow bar for pour-overs.  Solidly good coffee and a great variety of direct trade beans.

Ghost Note

This modern spot in Capital Hill offers a simple core menu with stunningly good single origin coffees.  A Kenya single origin espresso shot recommended by the barista here was definitely one to remember.

La Marzocco

This grandaddy of espresso machines and grinders has a beautiful, light-filled cafe and showroom right in the Seattle city center.  Each month a new, renowned coffee brand or roaster takes up residence in their cafe, trains their staff on their coffees, and creates a unique experience for guests.  We had the pleasure of sampling coffees from roaster La Colombe while ogling the beautiful espresso machines.  Think car showroom for baristas, only full of light and plants and delicious coffee.

For places to visit, shop, and stay (and maybe more food, shhhh!), tune in to Part II here!

“The mountains are calling…”

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I took a brief hiatus from the blog for a trip to Yosemite National Park last week.  It was a beautiful place, far beyond what words or pictures can adequately describe.  That is the true value of our national parks — not only do they preserve our plants and wildlife, but they provide us with spaces for awe, for wonder, and for experiencing something grander and more majestic than ourselves.

I hiked below Bridalveil Fall and then around the loop for a bit, with stunning views of El Capitan, Half Dome, and Cathedral Rocks.  I even saw a rainbow over the falls!  All in all it was a great little solo trip to relax and recharge, read and reflect, and revel in the beauty of nature for a little while.  Here are a few pictures from my travels, if you’d like to see.

Oh, Barcelona

When I first began planning a trip to Barcelona, I was more focused on the Paris leg of that Europe trip than anything — I love that city dearly.  But when I mentioned my trip planning, people would say, “Oh, Barcelona?  That is my favorite city…”  Their voices would be wistful and a touch envious with the pronouncement, and now that I have been, I know exactly how they feel.  Barcelona is an amazing and vibrant city, full of modern art and culture, delicious food and wine, and a spirit that is infectious.

Eat:

La Boqueria

This is city’s most famous public market.  Fruits, cheeses, meats, and sweets make up a colorful panoply, rows upon rows.  Stop at the tiny Bar Pinotxo, and thank me later — many say they offer the best tapas in the city.  Cava at 11 A.M.?  Why yes!  Seriously delicious baby squid with white beans were had at this tiny eatery, served by the kindest older gentleman proprietor who could not have been more enthusiastic to share his food with us.  Make sure to grab some jamón and cheese to snack on as you wander.

Continue reading “Oh, Barcelona”

I ❤️ Heath S.F.

This weekend I took a few days off and headed to San Francisco, where I spent one delightful and inspiring afternoon at Heath Ceramics.  I wanted to bring everything home! then figured it would be easier to just live in their glorious store!  Spoiler: I finally settled for a pair of beautiful items to bring home and some lovely photos to share.

Founded in Sausalito, California, in 1948, Heath Ceramics products are handcrafted by skilled artisans in small runs in the Bay Area.  They believe in “making good things for good people—the right way,” which is a philosophy that I love and support 100%.

Continue reading “I ❤️ Heath S.F.”

A displaced Parisienne

Despite cute new boots, tons of February sunshine, and some thought-provoking Joan Didion essays on my mind (currently reading The White Album), I’m missing Paris today.  Call it a mild case of the Monday blues, I suppose?  There are always those places you feel drawn to — a childhood street or coffee shop with fond memories.  Others tug at your sense of place inexplicably, greeting you with open arms and a sense of belonging even though you are a newcomer.  In that way Paris is my “heart-home,” and for me there is nothing quite like the feeling of emerging from the Metro into the streets above.  Je t’aime, Paris.